Trips

Tuesday 1 March 2016

East Coast part 1

Had a fantastic day out snorkeling with Passions of Paradise, it was an early start as the boat left at 8am. Although it was a very calm day I still took a travel sickness tablet to be sure. It took 2hrs to get out to Michaelmas Cay which is a little piece of sand inhabited by thousands of nesting sea birds. We kitted up in our stinger suits and jumped in, I have mixed feelings about the barrier reef as its not what I expected. There is a lot of damage to the reef caused by cyclones and the parrot fish don't help. We snorkeled for half an hour as we were going to do a try dive to see how we felt about being under the water again. The dive went well, we only went to 8m and I had no problems  with my ears. After the dive was complete we went back in the water for another snorkel and saw a couple of turtles and a blue spotted ray. Back on the boat it was lunchtime and as normal nothing I liked so had 2 bread rolls and some fruit. We then headed for Paradise reef which took about an hour, the sea was a bit more choppy here but we jumped in for another swim. This reef was much like the other one but we did see a couple of turtles and a huge potato cod. Once back on the boat a head count was done and then headed back to Cairns where we hit a massive downpour just as we got into the harbor. That night we went into town for a meal, while walking around town we found the night market so went in for a look. We ended up having a Chinese pressure point massage and OMG I felt like I had been beaten up by the smallest of ladies. She knew where to put those elbows, palms and thumbs to inflict the most pain.
I was surprised the next morning that I didn't hurt but didn't jump out of bed feeling great either. I brought an activity watch that tracks your sleep pattern and mine isn't good, I'm in and out of a deep and light sleep all night. It also tracks your activities or lack of them in my case but I am keeping up with the challenges it sets me.
Leaving Cairns we head for Port Douglas where the barrier reef is at its closest the land and the reef is meant to be better as well. Port Douglas is a really nice place, quite small and has a colonial feel to it. Booked into a camp site for two nights as the next day we are heading out on another boat to do some diving hopefully. The site is right on the beach but unfortunately the beach was closed due to a guy being stung by a jellyfish, the type that kills you in 2hrs.
We boarded the Poseidon at 8am and an hour and half later we were kitting up for our first dive, I think we were both feeling nervous but Tom our dive master was great. First dive was to 18 meters and we had a great time, the reef is better with more color and plenty of fish around. So after doing 3 dives and seeing turtles, white and black tip sharks, a huge grouper and a million over types of fish we are both happy we took the plunge again.
We decided to stay an extra night at this site as the next day we are heading to Daintree and the rain forest which is about 2hrs away.
So up early and we headed up the coast to Daintree but we first had to pay to cross the Daintree River by ferry, the river is fast flowing and was told full of crocs. We headed for the furthest point of Cape Tribulation which basically is just a beach and the chance of seeing the large Emu type bird called a Cassowary. We were told that only about 1000 are left in the wild so was lucky to see one with her chick on the Jindalba walk. On the way back we called in at the Daintree Ice Cream farm where they grow all their own fruit to make the ice cream. A few minutes down the road was another ice cream place called Floravilla, so we had to compare the two places.
The rain forest is a hot and humid place with such dense forest it's like night when you walk through it so taking photos was tricky.
Back at the camp site and straight into the pool to cool off but the weather changed and it rained very hard and it didn't stop, by morning everything was wet but we managed to get it all dry before we left the camp to head back to Cairns.
We didn't really stop at Cairns but we did want to visit the botanic gardens just outside town, spent an hour walking around but it wasn't as large as some gardens we had been too.
On the way back down the east coast we stopped at the Babinda Boulders which are huge boulders in the Babinda Creek. Swimming is allowed in one area by the car park, it was pouring with rain and as I was already soaked I went for a dip. The water was cold but very refreshing and you could feel the currant running. The weather didn't improve so we didn't stop anywhere else just headed for a campsite at Innisfail. This campsite had a great pool so before we left that morning I went for a swim, nice way to start the day.
We only had a short drive to Paronella Park and the Mena Falls, we arrived at lunch time and brought our entry tickets and was booked on the next tour. The entry price also gives you a nights camping if you want it and if you camp you can go on a night tour which is similar the day tour but you get to see the palace lit up. The castle was the dream of Jose Paronella who started the build in the 1930's but died at an early age from a heart attack so although the park was finished he never got to enjoy it's beauty. From then on the castle and the park started to deteragate and Mother Nature also played her part with floods and cyclones.
So onwards to Townsville as we were booked in to have two new tires fitted as our back ones were as smooth as a baby's bum. It was late afternoon by the time we were done at the garage but we wanted to carry on to Ayr for the night and go to the drive in cinema. Booked into the camp site, tent up and a quick meal then off to the Stardust Drive In where we thought we were going to watch a film called "Sisters" but the first film was "The Dress Marker" and then "Sisters" came on. Both were good films and we both really enjoyed the evening and we never got back to the site until 11.30pm. The site has a 50m pool so once we were up at 7.20 we headed for a swim, I'm now only doing half a mile as my shoulder is playing up again.
Another short drive to Airlie Beach which is the gate way to the Whitsunday Islands and the Great Barrier Reef. On route we stopped at lots of towns and their gorgeous beaches for some walks and to keep my watch happy as if I sit still too long it buzzes me to get moving.
Checked into a Big4 site as they were doing a special of pay for 2 nights get the third for free, this suits us as our boat trip is on Monday. There are hundreds of islands but only a handful that are inhabited and you can visit. The closest to Airlie Beach is Day Dream Island and it's a 30 minute boat ride so that's what we did. It's such a small island and you can easily walk around it and with only one resort which as a day visitor you can use all the amenities they have. We still needed suits to snorkel due to the season for stringers in the water but we still had a great afternoon on Lovers Beach but the water was a bit milky. Spent the last hour by the pool before the ferry takes us back and then discover that the island has lots of Wallaroos and I fed one, he was so cute.
We had a good 3 days at Airlie and the Whitsundays could spend more time but we have to move on. Heading further south on the Bruce Highway we turned off to Cape Hillsborough where we walked along the beach to Wedge Island as the tide was out we could reach it. I got stuck in the sand/mud and was covered in it, I think that's the end of my Keen sandals now. We reached Mackay which is a huge city which we are not use too but I guess the whole east coast will be like this. We didn't stay in Mackay but headed inland to the Eungella National Park, as it was late afternoon we started the drive but stopped at Finch Hatton as that's where the gorge is we want to see. We camped in the towns show ground which is cheap as it only had showers and toilets but it was a nice setting.
The gorge road was a bit rough and I had to drive through 3 river crossings but they wasn't deep. It was a 2km walk to the cascades, which is a series of waterfalls and a lovely but freezing pool at the top to cool off in. After a swim we head to Wild Fire falls another 2km up the track, this also had a huge pool to swim in and even colder or maybe we were hotter. After a cooling swim we head back down the gorge to the car and head to Broken River where we are going to camp by the river in the hope of seeing some platypus. This will be the third time we have sat and waited for them at different locations and finally early evening our luck is in and we see loads of them. As the light was fading it was hard to get any good photos so fingers cross we will see them again in the morning. Nightmare it rained most of the night and I was actually cold, luckily in the morning it was sunny so we could dry the tent out. So camera and cup of tea in hand we headed down to the river bank and yes we saw some more platypus not as many as the night before but who's counting.
Everything packed away we headed back to Mackay and the Bruce Highway to continue our drive south. Just outside Mackay was the Sugar Hut which is a miniature sugar refinery for visitors to see how the sugar cane is turned into sugar and a million other things. Really good tour and learnt that Queensland is the largest producers of sugar in the world and exports 80% of the sugar cane. It also makes ice cream and the lady gave me a tub of licorice ice cream as I didn't taste any of the other samples on offer, very nice.
A few more miles and we are in Green Hill at a camp site by the beach, washing done and a walk on the beach and time for dinner. This site is infested with mosquitos and they drove me crazy, even with a spray they still managed to bite me on my hands and feet. It was also very hot in the night and didn't sleep too well but at least in the morning we were only driving a short distance to Rockhampton.
A bit of a boring drive along the Bruce Highway for 250km to Rockhampton but once there we had a walk around the city zoo and the botanical gardens which was nice, also found the city pool and had a swim for an hour. Just outside Rockhampton we are camped in Gracemere on the Capricorn Highway as we are driving to the emerald and sapphire fields in the morning. Rained most of the night but as normal it was brilliant sunshine in the morning so while the tent was drying out we jumped into the pool to cool off. Finally got on the road at 9.30 once everything had dried out and packed away. We drove 300km to Sapphire to find everything is closed because it's too hot, crazy country. Went to a lovely campsite that the owners said camp anywhere and do a self registration as they don't work weekends and as normal we were the only campers here apart from a couple of residents. It's nice having everything to yourself but makes you wonder where everyone else is and are we missing something.
Up with the sun rise to see lots of wallabies and kangaroos bouncing around in the woods so took a walk in the rising sun. We are aiming on trying to find Carnarvon Gorge which is in a national park just pass Rolleston. Once we turn off the main road we had to drive into a cattle station where the cattle are all over the road but they do move once you get close enough. This was for 20km then it was off road for another 6km before we reached the campsite which is the gateway to the gorge. Takarakka is a haven for kangaroos they are everywhere in the site, also they claim that there are platypus in the river but after two nights of looking we didn't see any. We also spotted Rat Kangaroos which we had never seen before, these are the smaller kangaroo known.
The lady in the camp suggested we head to Mickey's Creek as it was only a 3km walk up to the gorge and to look at the Rock pool after as it was so hot. Mickey's Creek lead into an amazing gorge that got really narrow and dark but kind of magical as well. The rock pool was nice and people were swimming in it but it was covered in mosquitos and I've been bitten enough.
Up early to walk the gorge and by 8.30 we were hiking up the path way but we needed to be earlier really as it was so hot. I think this is my favorite national park so far as the walks are really nice and the stepping stones over the river are beautiful. On route up to the Art Gallery are lots of other tracks that lead to other special places but they advise you go to the furthest point first which we did. The art gallery is a large cliff wall with Aboriginal paintings, not sure what I expected but it was just a wall of hands, tools and symbols explaining their history. Anyway we had a drink and some fruit before we headed back down to Wards Canyon. The canyon is a track between the rocks a bit like a gorge, very dark, damp and eerie. Further down you take the track to the amphitheater which was an amazing place, you climb a ladder to get to a gap that you walk through and then you come out into this place completely surrounded by high cliffs with the sun filtering through the trees high on the ridge. The sounds in there are great, I had never heard anything like it before. Nearly back down there was the Moss Garden which was ok but not worth the walk to get there, it was basically  where rain water filters through the rocks and creates the moss on the cliff face.
So after walking 14km we were at the bottom and the last river crossing so we sat on the rocks and bathed our feet as mine were so hot due to wearing my walking boots. Really enjoyed my day in the gorge even through my knees are killing me and I will ache tomorrow.
Today is a driving day which is good as after yesterday's long hike I need the sit down, we are driving back to the coast via Gladstone and then heading south along the coastal road. After lots of stops on route we are camped in a great little site in Benaraby and once again we are the only campers. This little camp site was right on the Bruce Highway so very noisy that night, I was up at 5.30 as couldn't sleep no longer.
Carrying on along the Bruce Highway we stop of at Bundaberg which is famous for its rum and ginger beer but also it has one of Australia's largest breeding beaches for loggerhead turtles.
Mon Repos is the beach where the turtles lay their eggs and at this time it's the hatchlings that are on the beach. For $11 you get to see them dig their way out of the sandy nest and head for the safety of the ocean. I was one of the lucky ones that got picked to guide their way down the beach, I had to stand with my torch in a line with some others and the hatchlings follow the light to the ocean. Absolutely amazing to watch and the efforts the volunteers and ranges go to ensure the survival of these loggerheads.
Now heading to Hervey Bay where we made a quick stop at Childers, a little old fashioned town with a history. A few years ago a backpackers hostel was burnt down killing 15 backpackers which 5 were British. The town has never forgotten those that lost their life's that night and there is a memorial to them in the information center, very moving. We are in Hervey Bay in a lovely site right on the beach and it's a sandy beach which you can swim in. Booked in for 3 nights as we are off to Frazer Island and we will leave our van in the site.








 

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